Saturday, February 23, 2008

Friday February 22

A beautiful drive to Cottonwoods campground at the
other end of Big Bend and back on the Rio Grande.
Heard a great Ranger speak about the military history
of Big Bend. TRUE FACT ALERT: In the 1859 camels
were brought to the Big Bend area to provide support
for the military, under the command of Robert E. Lee,
who were here to fight the bad Indians and even worse
Mexicans. The Civil War interrupted things and
afterwards, the government wanted nothing to do with
anything Bob was involved with. So the camels just
roamed the area. Some were caught and sold to
circuses.

Someone at the talk asked the Ranger about the
infamous wall that is going to protect us from all the
horrible things that might cross the Rio Grande in the
night. He said the wall will not extend through the
National Park. There will be a series of high towers
that will have some exotic electronics that can
distinguish between animals and humans and even
between humans carrying backpacks and those not. He
did his best to keep a straight face.

I kayaked upstream into the Santa Elena Canyon. Had
to get out and drag it through some shallow water and
rapids but it was worth it. The canyon rises 1500 ft
on both sides and narrows to 50 feet in places. I
paddled as far as Fern Canyon. It's on the Mexican
side but is ok to explore (explain that, Homeland
Security). Also very tall, but no water and even
narrower that Santa Elena. The float back downstream
was a breeze.

Cottonwoods Campground is so called because it is full
of cottonwood trees. The campsites are on raised
areas of ground between the trees and the area is
regularly irrigated to feed the trees. It was a
little like Venice today as they had turned on the
taps last night.

Met a couple of serious birdwatchers from New
Hampshire who travel around the world trying to nail
birds for their lifelist. They are in this area
looking for the elusive rock wren. Mrs. BW told me
she took a trip to Newfoundland with the VINS bird guy
specifically to see a grouse that lives on top of Gros
Morne.

I'm really tired of men, generally within 10 years of
my age, who need to tell me all the things they've
accomplished, the places they've been and whatever
else they can fit into a monologue before I can find
some pretense upon which to escape. Are these all
lonely guys? Do they think they're accomplishments
are so interesting? I've been spoiled by the PCC boy
staff.

A very nice couple from Missouri almost has me
convinced there are great things to do there in
addition to eating BBQ in Kansas City.


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